When CEO Trudy Sullivan arrived at Talbots, from her previous position at casual apparel giant Liz Claiborne, she was startled by the absence of in-house design and product development departments. Ms Sullivan quickly addressed this through new hires to build a design team. An obvious place to start, right? But what set Ms Sullivan’s direction apart was her approach. She resisted the urge to throw out the baby with the bathwater. Instead of a total overhaul and an immediate call to arms to create new products, she organized a systematic review of best, and worst, sellers from the past sixty years! This re-examination of the foundations — the pearls, twin-sets, flats, trench coats — was not an exercise in finding old favourites to re-issue but to understand the core of Talbots’ business and the cachet of true American style.

Surely there can be no more enduring examples of American style than Katherine Hepburn, Jacqueline Onassis and Princess Grace of Monaco. Cleverly, Talbots has created three separate fits for jackets, each named after one of these iconic women. In total, there are 23 styles available on-line, each grouped according to fit, and with an accompanying video called — Meet the Ladies:

• Kate: Sexy, hourglass, fitted-at-the waist jackets for dressing up or down.
• Jackie: Cool, sophisticated and playful jackets. Great with jeans and skirts.
• Grace: Classic, slightly fitted jackets — feminine and ladylike.

Jackets are a big-ticket item, rarely an impulse purchase. This technique of “romancing the merchandise” carries with it the promise of boosted sales. Who could resist exploring these enticingly different looks? I don’t want to second-guess Ms Sullivan or the design group but the implications for this brand within a brand are intriguing and filled with possibility.

Equally as audacious was Ms Sullivan’s willingness to take on denim. From its modest, missy-fitting past, Talbots has emerged as a leader in the denim category. Again, there’s the new signature emphasis on multiple fits, plus, an assortment of silhouettes and finishes or “washes” to ensure every woman finds her dream jean.

It’s clear to me that Talbots is a work in progress. The holiday collection proposes “re-imagined offerings” and from what I’ve seen so far, only the edgiest vintage details will be reinvented or the source of inspiration. Simple, traditional pearl necklaces have evolved into dramatic, glamorous multi-strand showpieces. It wouldn’t surprise me if Michelle Obama shows up for a Christmas party in one of these beauties.

But the real measure of Ms Sullivan’s Executive Presence is surely her grace under fire. The rebranding took place during extraordinarily challenging financial pressure: plummeting stock prices, selling off the men’s and kid’s divisions; criticism for overpaying for recently purchased casual retailer J. Jill. Throughout all this public scrutiny, Ms Sullivan and her team rolled out the rebranding and never lost their poise or their vision. What a coup! Félicitations for creating the cachet that is Talbots today.

Executive Presence is, indeed, complex. Do you have executive presence? What about your team? Download your Executive Presence Scorecard

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There’s no denying that I’ve been openly critical of some of Michelle Obama’s wardrobe choices — both before and after she became First Lady.  But Tuesday evening, I was in awe.  It was the first White House State Dinner since President Obama took office and Michelle definitely rose to the occasion.  What a gown — shimmering silk chiffon embroidered with sterling silver paillettes.  She resembled a magnificent swan — so full of grace.

According to designer Naeem Khan, his entirely hand-sewn creation took 40 people over three weeks to complete.  I believe it.  As a graduate of Haute Couture, I’ve rarely seen such an amazing gown.  Khan’s reputation secured him the opportunity to design the gown but now he’s a STAR — undoubtedly inundated with orders.

Following the grand entrance of the President and First Lady, President Obama welcomed India’s Prime Minister ,Manmohan Singh, and proposed a toast to his guest.  Prime Minister Singh responded to the toast with more than a simple, raised glass; he drank to himself.

In an identical gesture, President Obama also drank to himself when the Prime Minister offered a reciprocal toast.  Perhaps, the President’s reaction was made in the same spirit as the famous Churchill finger bowl incident — when his guest drank from the finger bowl, Churchill followed suit in a gesture to save the guest from embarrassment.

Although I found the speeches eloquent and timely, the actual toasting and clinking of glasses was awkward.  Both the President and the Prime Mister held the bowl of the glass, instead of the stem.  White wine glasses should always be held by the stem — no matter that President Obama’s glass contained water.  At one point, he had a napkin wrapped around the glass.

Although there was a server with a tray, he was out of range.  A small table, as a place to deposit the toasting glasses, would have been helpful.  As I said, there was an unfortunate awkwardness; the missing element was elegance.

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Join me for my FREE, 55 minute pre-training class:  Style for Women Virtual 4-part course where I will share tips on how to create your own look of success!

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Often called “ the designer’s designer,” Cuban-born Isabel Toledo was little known outside fashion’s inner sanctum until First Lady Michelle Obama selected her shift dress and coat for the January Inauguration Ceremony.  Last week in NYC, I visited The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) for an exhibition of Isabel’s work.

Entitled “Fashion from the Inside Out,” it showcases her designs over the last 20 years. Isabel is a minimalist – rarely using ornamentation to enhance her designs – and her signature is the ability to manipulate fabric to form garments.  The expression “liquid architecture” has been coined to describe her jersey dresses. The Cornflower Dress (right) is a perfect example, with its ingeniously draped series of arcs.  Beautiful, indeed, though I’m not certain how to wear it!

Over the years, I have enthusiastically watched Isabel’s evolution.  That is, until her wool lace, lemongrass-coloured shift dress and coat made their debut on the First Lady’s January walk.  The Queen Mother immediately came to mind – in a word, dowdy.  Where was the young, spirited fashion-minded Michelle? Where was the unique creative edge synonymous with Isabel’s name?

And then, there I was at the end of the exhibition with this famous ensemble. FIT includes the outfit as part of Isabel’s Origami Series – inspired by the Japanese art of paper folding.  Paper? Paper is stiff and crisp.  The fabric was exquisite wool lace from Switzerland’s prestigious Forster Rohner and should have been finished using haute couture techniques – especially since Isabel, distaining the appellation artist, always reminds people she is a “seamstress first.”

Instead of conspicuous side seams, sewn by machine, the lace should have been overlapped and invisibly joined with hand stitching to create a seamless appearance.  When I studied Haute Couture at the Académie des Hauts Couturiers Canadiens, I learned to handle expensive lace.  This satin dress (below right) is covered with heavy cotton French lace and you can see how I joined the lace at the side seams.  Compare this finish to Isabel’s ensemble for the First Lady. The rich, luxurious Swiss wool lace did not get the attention it deserved –what a shame.

And another thing, Inauguration Day was windy.  We seemed to see the First Lady constantly fiddling with her flapping coat.  Were there no hooks?  I thought the President looked more elegantly at ease in his understated overcoat.

Learn more about finishing techniques for lace fabrics

Visit The Museum at FIT and see the Isabel Toledo exhibition

Revisit Time Magazine’s take on Inaugural Day ceremonies and Michelle’s famous ensemble:

How do you rate the First Lady’s fashion choices and Isabel’s designs?  Who’s your favourite designer?  Please let me know your thoughts.

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The Look of Success by Diane Craig^TM Teleseminar for Women starts on Ocober 20, 2009. Learn how to create your own Look of Success in 4 sessions with Diane.

“I’ll show you how to enhance and establish the best looks for your figure, your budget and your lifestyle.”

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The timing is perfection itself – great news in a season of closely trimmed clothing budgets.  All these accessories provide a much-needed boost to existing wardrobes.  Take last year’s little black sundress or Capri pants and give them a fresh spin with a cutting-edge accessory.

Choose from handbags in all colours and shapes, often loaded with hardware.  There are gladiator sandals galore and brilliant ballerinas –for anyone not wanting to bare her toes.  Belts are revisiting waistlines and chunky cuffs encircling wrists.  The best-dressed ears are wearing chandeliers.  Necklaces are conspicuously fake, bold and oversized, with a definite wow factor.  Check out this slide show from New York Times style expert, Bill Cunningham; you have to see some of these pieces.

Although Michelle Obama’s style is often compared with Jackie O’s – whose signature accessory was sunglasses – Michelle projects real individualism when it comes to accessorizing.  Her green pumps and gloves and Victorian sash brooch – worn at President Obama’s Inaugural swearing-in ceremony – gave us a taste of things to come.

On the March cover of O, The Oprah Magazine, she showcased a wide belt over a cardigan.  This silhouette-enhancing technique of belting a cardigan or jacket has become one of her signature looks.  In Moscow on Tuesday, an understated white twin-set  and black trousers provided the perfect backdrop for her oversized necklace.

 Accessorizing, I believe, is the secret to having a personal look.  I encourage clients to use accessories for both updating what’s in their closets and to present an individual statement.  Accessories show off your creativity and project a sense of fun – perfect for summer.

If you opt for one of this season’s big, oversized necklaces, keep these tips in mind:

1. If your necklace is silver – balance the look with small, relatively simple silver earrings.  Always echo the same metal or stones as your necklace in your choice of earrings.
2. Keep the background simple – avoid a busy, print background.
3. Borrow a page from Michelle O – she never combines a big belt and big necklace.  One centrepiece is all you need.
4. Your goal is a graceful length – too short and your necklace is a choker, too long and it may fall within the “hills and valleys.”
5. Reserve this look for patios, picnics and parties – unless you work in a relaxed, creative environment.

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Sign up for my FREE teleseminar- How to Create a Professional and Personal Image Plan on Tuesday July 28th 12-1pm Eastern Standard Time- Check your time zone! * You will learn how to create a plan that includes- all of the topics you should be familiar with to get the professional and personal image you want to project.  Register Now

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