Often called “ the designer’s designer,” Cuban-born Isabel Toledo was little known outside fashion’s inner sanctum until First Lady Michelle Obama selected her shift dress and coat for the January Inauguration Ceremony.  Last week in NYC, I visited The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) for an exhibition of Isabel’s work.

Entitled “Fashion from the Inside Out,” it showcases her designs over the last 20 years. Isabel is a minimalist – rarely using ornamentation to enhance her designs – and her signature is the ability to manipulate fabric to form garments.  The expression “liquid architecture” has been coined to describe her jersey dresses. The Cornflower Dress (right) is a perfect example, with its ingeniously draped series of arcs.  Beautiful, indeed, though I’m not certain how to wear it!

Over the years, I have enthusiastically watched Isabel’s evolution.  That is, until her wool lace, lemongrass-coloured shift dress and coat made their debut on the First Lady’s January walk.  The Queen Mother immediately came to mind – in a word, dowdy.  Where was the young, spirited fashion-minded Michelle? Where was the unique creative edge synonymous with Isabel’s name?

And then, there I was at the end of the exhibition with this famous ensemble. FIT includes the outfit as part of Isabel’s Origami Series – inspired by the Japanese art of paper folding.  Paper? Paper is stiff and crisp.  The fabric was exquisite wool lace from Switzerland’s prestigious Forster Rohner and should have been finished using haute couture techniques – especially since Isabel, distaining the appellation artist, always reminds people she is a “seamstress first.”

Instead of conspicuous side seams, sewn by machine, the lace should have been overlapped and invisibly joined with hand stitching to create a seamless appearance.  When I studied Haute Couture at the Académie des Hauts Couturiers Canadiens, I learned to handle expensive lace.  This satin dress (below right) is covered with heavy cotton French lace and you can see how I joined the lace at the side seams.  Compare this finish to Isabel’s ensemble for the First Lady. The rich, luxurious Swiss wool lace did not get the attention it deserved –what a shame.

And another thing, Inauguration Day was windy.  We seemed to see the First Lady constantly fiddling with her flapping coat.  Were there no hooks?  I thought the President looked more elegantly at ease in his understated overcoat.

Learn more about finishing techniques for lace fabrics

Visit The Museum at FIT and see the Isabel Toledo exhibition

Revisit Time Magazine’s take on Inaugural Day ceremonies and Michelle’s famous ensemble:

How do you rate the First Lady’s fashion choices and Isabel’s designs?  Who’s your favourite designer?  Please let me know your thoughts.

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The timing is perfection itself – great news in a season of closely trimmed clothing budgets.  All these accessories provide a much-needed boost to existing wardrobes.  Take last year’s little black sundress or Capri pants and give them a fresh spin with a cutting-edge accessory.

Choose from handbags in all colours and shapes, often loaded with hardware.  There are gladiator sandals galore and brilliant ballerinas –for anyone not wanting to bare her toes.  Belts are revisiting waistlines and chunky cuffs encircling wrists.  The best-dressed ears are wearing chandeliers.  Necklaces are conspicuously fake, bold and oversized, with a definite wow factor.  Check out this slide show from New York Times style expert, Bill Cunningham; you have to see some of these pieces.

Although Michelle Obama’s style is often compared with Jackie O’s – whose signature accessory was sunglasses – Michelle projects real individualism when it comes to accessorizing.  Her green pumps and gloves and Victorian sash brooch – worn at President Obama’s Inaugural swearing-in ceremony – gave us a taste of things to come.

On the March cover of O, The Oprah Magazine, she showcased a wide belt over a cardigan.  This silhouette-enhancing technique of belting a cardigan or jacket has become one of her signature looks.  In Moscow on Tuesday, an understated white twin-set  and black trousers provided the perfect backdrop for her oversized necklace.

 Accessorizing, I believe, is the secret to having a personal look.  I encourage clients to use accessories for both updating what’s in their closets and to present an individual statement.  Accessories show off your creativity and project a sense of fun – perfect for summer.

If you opt for one of this season’s big, oversized necklaces, keep these tips in mind:

1. If your necklace is silver – balance the look with small, relatively simple silver earrings.  Always echo the same metal or stones as your necklace in your choice of earrings.
2. Keep the background simple – avoid a busy, print background.
3. Borrow a page from Michelle O – she never combines a big belt and big necklace.  One centrepiece is all you need.
4. Your goal is a graceful length – too short and your necklace is a choker, too long and it may fall within the “hills and valleys.”
5. Reserve this look for patios, picnics and parties – unless you work in a relaxed, creative environment.

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