Last month, a series of conversations recorded in 1964 between Jacqueline Kennedy and Arthur Schlesinger Jr., a former Kennedy aide, was published into the latest book on the legendary first lady – and one of my favourite 20^th-century style icons – titled Jacqueline Kennedy: Historic Conversations on Life with John F. Kennedy. During these conversations, Jackie speaks her mind – sometimes controversially so – sharing her opinions on political figures, musing on life in the spotlight, reminiscing on past times with JFK. Though her words in these conversations can be raw, from them emerges a new perspective on Jackie’s life from the woman herself – and it serves to remind me what a strong and unforgettable woman she was.

Elegant and poised even in moments of extreme crisis: Jackie Kennedy acted as a role model for women of her time and continues to remain so today. What are the elements that composed such an iconic public figure and, of course, such a revered celebrity in the fashion world as well? Though her wardrobe revealed her impeccable taste, it was not simply her outfits that made her so celebrated as a paragon of style. It was also how she presented herself: her graceful mannerisms and speech, the way she wore her clothes. She used all the components of self-presentation to her advantage.

How can we take after Jackie to look our best in front of others? First of all, Jackie was a woman who knew how to carry herself. She had superb posture – most likely a result of years of horseback riding as a girl. Good posture can make you instantly appear confident – not to mention taller and thinner. Slouching, however, can make you look disinterested or sloppy, and can even give you back or jaw pain. So keep your shoulders straight and your head held high: you will seem and feel more alert.

Jackie also knew what types of clothes fit her best. For formal affairs, she often chose empire-waisted gowns (a high-waisted dress that gathers just below the bust and has a long, flowing skirt) in order to lengthen her legs. She also wore boat-neck shirts in order to accentuate her collarbone, one of her most striking features. By knowing her body type and understanding what looked best on her figure, she was able to take fine clothes and make them look extraordinary.

And, naturally, there was her wonderful sense of style. Jackie had a penchant for French fashion; her year studying at the Sorbonne at age 20 perhaps sparked this lifelong passion. She also had a remarkably colourful wardrobe – sometimes daringly so – that is largely imperceptible in the black and white photographs that documented much of her time as First Lady. Her taste and choices of clothing have been imitated since she entered the public sphere, not only by millions of women around the world, but also by established designers such as Givenchy and Tom Ford.

To me, Jackie Kennedy is a timeless figure of grace, strength, and style. Following her example, women everywhere can adopt her elegance as a model for when we need to look our best in the public eye – whether we are giving an important presentation, making a speech in front of an audience, or even simply sharing our thoughts at a minor meeting. No matter the size of the crowd, Jackie carried herself admirably and let her strength shine through.

Tools to help you represent yourself well…

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Since 2007, when their Colour of the Year concept was introduced, Pantone Colour Institute has gathered information from various influential sources, including the Milan furniture fair and international clothing designers, to get an indication of pivotal, new colour directions. The Pantone team interprets the various results before the final announcement is made:
“In times of stress, we need something to lift our spirits. Honeysuckle is a captivating, stimulating color that gets the adrenaline going – perfect to ward off the blues.” Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute

I couldn’t agree more. Psychologically, pink is such a positive colour. Take la vie en rose. We’re tickled pink and in the pink of health; we look at the world through rose coloured glasses. Part of the fun and magic of following colour trends is the curious coincidences that occur. I’m thinking of iconic fashion legend Diana Vreeland and her famous proclamation in the 1960s; “Pink is the navy blue of India.” Vreeland was famously known for her championing of pink. In the film musical, Funny Face, with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire, Kay Thompson plays an autocratic fashion director who adores pink. And now, Allure, Vreeland’s book compiled with encouragement from her friend, editor Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, and published 30 years ago has just been reprinted. Quelle coincidence!

I’m not suggesting that “pink is the new black” but I’m always intrigued to see a colour show up on numerous runways in the same season — and Honeysuckle certainly does.

I am delighted with the announcement. I love the colour; it’s fresh, new and sexy. Unlike many shades of pink, it works for both warm and cool skin tones. The absence of blue notes makes Honeysuckle ideal for warm skin — often characterized by freckles while the underlying vibrancy helps to brighten cool skin.

It’s important to understand that cool skin is as likely to be found on brunettes as blondes. Think Catherine Zeta Jones. Same story for warm skin — blonde or brunette is not really the determining factor. There’s no question that analyzing your skin tone can be a bit of a challenge. So in celebration of the (almost) universally wearable Honeysuckle, I’m offering a special invitation to my Colour Analysis Tip Sheet.

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I will admit to a soft spot for black tie, a fondness for three-piece suits and a liking for tweed jackets with cashmere sweaters and cords, when the occasions arise. But this leaning towards tailored clothing doesn’t rule out hoodies and sweat pants — as long as they’re confined to the gym! Because when it comes to dressing down, I’m with Jerry Seinfeld. In the episode called The Pilot, where Jerry and George are pitching a TV network with their idea for a new show, Jerry wants George to shape up and dress the part:

“You know the message you’re sending out to the world with these sweatpants? You’re telling the world, ‘I give up. I can’t compete in normal society. I’m miserable, so I might as well be comfortable.’” Jerry in The Pilot

Jerry really got it right. Clothing does send a message. But there’s an enormous side benefit to a well-groomed appearance and general sense of “dressing up” — it gives you a lift. Big time. One of the greatest advocates of this philosophy is my friend Bill Shaddy. As former Senior Director of International Personnel Operations at Pepsi, Bill knows “the right stuff” when it comes to stocking his closet. These days, however, things are a little more complicated. For starters, he has all the buttons on his shirts replaced with snaps. Bill, I should explain, has been living with MS for the last 18 years and snaps are just easier than wrangling with a button and bitty hole. Rain or shine, Bill dresses up. His only concession is a stylish cane by his side.

After life in the fast lane — including overseas postings in London, India, Cyrus and eventually Corporate HQ, just outside New York City — Bill now lives in Sarasota, Florida. Naturally, the local “dress code” is far more casual than his habitual boardroom haunts. He accepts that a relaxed dress code makes sense in Sarasota’s climate and that it’s a lifestyle thing, too. It’s only natural that clothes reflect the laid-back culture of Florida but I can picture Bill saying; “Dressing up just makes one feel so much better!” His sense of well being reflects a keen level of attention to detail. Trousers need a little extra knee-room to accommodate his new, life-changing walk-aid (link) and there are the snap alterations on shirts. Actually, Bill has become adept at making adjustments:

“My left side is sort of ‘going for the tide’ so I need to request restaurant servers to be certain my food is cut into bite-size pieces.”

Certainly the greatest adjustment was his decision to leave Pepsi. It was an intense and dynamic environment. The focus of his work was building local business teams in critical, emerging markets while helping to drive Pepsi operating systems. An essential component of his mandate was fostering the company’s global, cultural values at a local level. There were some challenges during the earliest stages of his diagnosis, when colleagues noticed something was not quite right. Ultimately, despite encouragement to remain on the job, Bill made his move to medically retire and relocate to Florida, so he could better manage his health agenda. Today, his mandate, depending on how he feels, is to deliver Junior Achievement basic business programs to students at local middle schools.

When it comes to dressing up, Bill Shaddy and I are on the same wavelength. Merci Bill for sharing your point of view!

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Life in downtown Toronto is fast-paced. Perhaps not by New York City standards, but more oil and gas companies are listed on the Toronto Stock Exchange than any other exchange in the world. Just stand in the underground walkway beneath the financial district at lunchtime to get a taste of the energy that defines this city. My work is very much a part of this intense and exciting atmosphere. Every day I meet new people. New connections are made, new alliances formed. And although corporate associations last for years — my private consultations are usually one-offs. I work with these clients on a very intense basis for a short period of time and then poof — mission accomplished and time to move on.

Such is the case with Pamelia. I will never forget the day she walked into my office. Tall. Blonde. Great presence, tons of positive energy and a radiant smile. She was about to turn fifty and wanted to update her look. It was obvious from the first few minutes that we were going to work well together. We made a date to meet at her place for a thorough closet run-through.

The big day arrived and before we tackled the tough editing process — there are always more discards than “keepers” — Pamelia showed me her beautifully appointed home. She had high praise for her neighbour, Mel, a deft hand at constructing numerous enhancements throughout the house and explained that since retiring, his accomplished skill-set had worked many small miracles.

Then, it was time to get to work. We started with the bedroom closet and were making great progress when Pamelia opened her armoire. I stopped in my tracks. There, in front of me, on the inside door panels, all Pamelia’s jewellery was beautifully arranged and hanging from a series of hooks mounted on large boards. This was simply the most brilliant jewellery storage system I had ever seen. Courtesy, once again, of gifted Mel. Forget the usual tangle of necklaces and jumble sale of earrings. I nicknamed it “accessories central” and immediately filed away the concept for my own armoire.

But Pamelia was a step ahead of me. While I organized and sorted her clothes into groups, she quietly slipped away. Of course, at the time, I wasn’t really paying attention but about a week later the whole picture became clear. The day of our final official meeting arrived and as Pamelia welcomed me at the front door, her radiant smile was replaced with a mild-wide grin. “For you,” she said, “from Mel,” as she presented two beautiful Tiffany-blue jewellery boards. My very own accessories central!

I knew offering payment was off-limits — Pamelia had told me Mel’s projects were his pleasure — so a few days later I delivered a bottle of bubbly. Their generous gesture still has me smiling. Working with positive people is, indeed,
a blessing; they bring joy and brighten the day. It’s like a gift of sunshine. I’ve thought long and hard about how to share this sentiment with Pamelia and Mel and finally decided. I’ll send them this blog to simply say it was wonderful to meet you … Mes chers amis, merci bien pour tout.

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When CEO Trudy Sullivan arrived at Talbots, from her previous position at casual apparel giant Liz Claiborne, she was startled by the absence of in-house design and product development departments. Ms Sullivan quickly addressed this through new hires to build a design team. An obvious place to start, right? But what set Ms Sullivan’s direction apart was her approach. She resisted the urge to throw out the baby with the bathwater. Instead of a total overhaul and an immediate call to arms to create new products, she organized a systematic review of best, and worst, sellers from the past sixty years! This re-examination of the foundations — the pearls, twin-sets, flats, trench coats — was not an exercise in finding old favourites to re-issue but to understand the core of Talbots’ business and the cachet of true American style.

Surely there can be no more enduring examples of American style than Katherine Hepburn, Jacqueline Onassis and Princess Grace of Monaco. Cleverly, Talbots has created three separate fits for jackets, each named after one of these iconic women. In total, there are 23 styles available on-line, each grouped according to fit, and with an accompanying video called — Meet the Ladies:

• Kate: Sexy, hourglass, fitted-at-the waist jackets for dressing up or down.
• Jackie: Cool, sophisticated and playful jackets. Great with jeans and skirts.
• Grace: Classic, slightly fitted jackets — feminine and ladylike.

Jackets are a big-ticket item, rarely an impulse purchase. This technique of “romancing the merchandise” carries with it the promise of boosted sales. Who could resist exploring these enticingly different looks? I don’t want to second-guess Ms Sullivan or the design group but the implications for this brand within a brand are intriguing and filled with possibility.

Equally as audacious was Ms Sullivan’s willingness to take on denim. From its modest, missy-fitting past, Talbots has emerged as a leader in the denim category. Again, there’s the new signature emphasis on multiple fits, plus, an assortment of silhouettes and finishes or “washes” to ensure every woman finds her dream jean.

It’s clear to me that Talbots is a work in progress. The holiday collection proposes “re-imagined offerings” and from what I’ve seen so far, only the edgiest vintage details will be reinvented or the source of inspiration. Simple, traditional pearl necklaces have evolved into dramatic, glamorous multi-strand showpieces. It wouldn’t surprise me if Michelle Obama shows up for a Christmas party in one of these beauties.

But the real measure of Ms Sullivan’s Executive Presence is surely her grace under fire. The rebranding took place during extraordinarily challenging financial pressure: plummeting stock prices, selling off the men’s and kid’s divisions; criticism for overpaying for recently purchased casual retailer J. Jill. Throughout all this public scrutiny, Ms Sullivan and her team rolled out the rebranding and never lost their poise or their vision. What a coup! Félicitations for creating the cachet that is Talbots today.

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I often speak about the importance of developing Executive Presence and Talbots certainly has it — now. I’m not suggesting, on any level, that Talbots’ metamorphosis was instant, easy or a magic bullet for immediate sales. Au contraire. It was meticulously researched, artfully orchestrated and ultimately, is a work-in-progress. What obviously intrigues me about the campaign is how it reinforces my philosophy: your image directly affects your ability to achieve success.

There are some extremely clever features in the re-brand but surely the most controversial is the choice of 1980’s supermodel, Canadian Linda Evangelista, as the 45-year old face of Talbots. Chances are you don’t remember her in the Miss Teen Niagara contest — the beginning of her illustrious career — but do remember her famous quote about her salary expectations at the height of her fame, “I don’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day.” Chameleon Linda, once known for her constantly changing appearance, has now stepped out for Talbots in a series of super-glam shots.  Some nay-sayers argue that Linda doesn’t look 45, that she is unfamiliar as a style icon to the new, targeted thirty-something customer, that her “fast” look will scare away existing customers and on and on …

To all those objections, I have the obvious response. The campaign just launched, the results aren’t in, but and it’s a big but, remember those pant sales. And besides, there are many other components than just Linda. What Ms. Evangelista did was create buzz and a ton of free publicity. Linda made me sit up and take notice, to actually visit the website and, I should add, a store. And what I found was impressive. This frumpy old store has a new Executive Presence!

To be continued (Part 1 of 2)

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It’s one thing to over pack and cram the car for a cottage weekend but come fall, both business trips and holiday getaways require a new, minimalist mindset. As a professional wardrobe problem-solver, I’m on constant alert for what seems to be the unfindable: great, packable clothes. Simple to maintain, uncreasable fabrics are usually contrary to quality, fashion and style. When I learned that Ottawa retailer Marlene Shepherd had developed a “Packably Perfect” concept, a week’s wardrobe (or even two!) all packed in a carry-on, I knew help was at hand.

So last month, during my Ottawa trip, I arranged to meet with Marlene, my friend, colleague and collaborator, for a hands-on session. My mission? Problem solving for a very diverse group of clients — many shapes, sizes and careers but having in common hectic travel schedules. Marlene knows her way around the international fashion marketplace and she has a special skill when it comes to discovering hidden gems within our own borders. True to form, she pulled out all the stops and shared her latest treasures, with travel in mind. We spent the morning fine-tuning; here’s our short list.

1. Trousers, the core component of every travel wardrobe, for work and play. Start with black, charcoal or dark brown and build from this base.

Tailored boot-cut trousers with an impeccable pedigree: a hip-gliding fit in a modern stretch fabric. Cambio, $210.00
Trim, slim-leg pants in dressed-up microfibre. Perfect for arriving crease-free. Margaret M, $98.00

2.  A knit cardigan or vest instead of a traditional jacket. The point I want to make here is that professional dressing doesn’t need to be structured. As Marlene says, “Once a woman discovers comfort, there’s no turning back.”

We focused on three very different collections: Nic + Zoe, Pure & Co., Curio. I was truly intrigued to see some of Marlene’s picks could be worn back-to-front or even upside down! No kidding. Slip into a sweater-vest  “bottoms-up” and suddenly it’s a cropped version with a generous collar. Obviously, these are specially designed pieces, so please don’t try this at home!

3. Crisp 100 percent cotton shirts and NO ironing, ever. A dream come true. White and colours. Foxcroft, $95.00

4. Simpli — sensational! This collection of seasonless jersey knitwear by Vancouver’s Simpli, has more components than a jigsaw puzzle, a zillion colours and endless combinations. Enough variations to go from boardroom to cruise ship. There’s only one fabrication so it’s easy to add components from year to year. Everything is sized but there are also two different fits, snug or relaxed. A perfect 3-piece career look, we agreed, is a pant and matching vest with a contrast underpiece. Some of the combos we came up with:
Base colour         Contrast
Navy                     Peacock
Charcoal              Aubergine
Black                    Wine

5. Clean lines, simple shapes and sensual fabrics form the Eileen Fisher philosophy. Every piece is perfectly designed to skim the body with flattering shape-enhancing style. Although Marlene, a self-avowed Size 16 loves this collection, my friend Kim, a yogini and perfect Size 8, is just as enthusiastic.

6. The icing on the cake — accessories. Marlene’s start in business was with jewellery so it’s not surprising she continues to have innovative ideas. “Wardrobe pieces,” as Marlene calls them, are semi-precious, multi-strand necklaces that detach into single or double strands, often with an optional pendant, providing real versatility — every traveler’s dream. She’s proud of the group of young Canadian jewellery designers providing Shepherd’s with these one-of-a-kind bijoux.

What a morning! Client checklist completed and with time to spare for personal shopping. My own “wheelie” is now perfectly packed and ready to go. I can’t wait.

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Although the FAT question is all too familiar, when it comes to image and creating an individual sense of style, my guiding principle is body proportion. What most people don’t realize is that while ten pounds makes the difference between one size and the next, those same ten pounds don’t alter the basic proportions of a body. Short neck or short legs? The right necklines and skirt silhouettes will play magical tricks. Same story for sloping shoulders or thick thighs. My strategy is to enhance the body’s framework with confidence-building clothing.

I know size doesn’t really matter because ten pounds here or there won’t make a difference to the body’s intrinsic shape, but sometimes it’s a challenge to make a perfectly proportioned client accept the fact that her Size 10 or 12 frame is not overweight. There is something wrong when educated, successful women have Size 0 as a goal. Last fall I mentioned Countess Filippa, the Ralph Lauren model fired for weighing in at 120 pounds. To add insult to injury, scary Photoshopping for a Japanese advertisement turned her body into a Barbie doll.

There’s no question that the fashion industry is the source of this Size 0 fixation and now, with the annual release of the mega-sized fashion magazines and their fall coverage, I’m inclined to think there’s extra pressure brought to bear. I was intrigued to read in a recent New York Times article, that German magazine Brigitte has decided, instead of rail thin models, to photograph real women, despite hostile criticism from designer Karl Lagerfeld. Incidentally, when Herr Lagerfeld designed a condensed collection for retailer H&M a few years ago, he insisted that production be restricted to small sizes.

Closer to home, Glamour magazine has made headlines for featuring so-called plus-size models on several occasions. (Most would argue that these women are healthy and normal, not overweight.) Although the intent is noble — to discourage women from aspiring to wafer thinness — the overwhelming trend for fashion shows and photography continues to be Size 0 models.

But there is progress, of a different sort. Typically fashion magazines worship youth but three of this fall’s gigantic issues feature 40-plus cover girls. Something of a milestone, although admittedly, all three are movie stars: Julia Roberts (Elle), Halle Berry (Vogue), Jennifer Aniston (Harper’s Bazaar).

Read more from Glamour, “Who says supermodels have to be thin?”

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Of course, the whole point of the evening is the award ceremony itself, but the red carpet parade helps to build the excitement and I was right there, covering the red carpet from my living room. (Read my Oscar night tweets here.)

There were no major faux pas. Well, maybe a couple — Charlize Theron, for starters. John Galliano of Dior created the lilac bustier gown especially for her. But what were those fabric spirals over each breast? And speaking of fabric, the asymmetrical ruffles on JLo’s gown reminded me of a Christmas tree skirt. And surely Elizabeth Banks could have ordered her beautiful dress in a more becoming colour?

Although this doesn’t actually fall into my official faux pas category, posture was very much on my mind and simply because it was sadly missing in action. All those strapless gowns demand wonderful posture — what our grandmothers called “bearing and carriage.” Time to hit the gym, girls, and start strengthening those trapezius muscles or Hollywood will be overloaded with dowager humps!

Most men looked amazing with lots of new and interesting takes on “black ties” and numerous pocket squares.  Full marks to Jeff Bridges for his appearance, his much-deserved award and let’s not forget his marriage of 33 years. Wow!  What a dramatic transformation from his role in Crazy Heart. Alec Baldwin, on the other hand, was about an inch short on the shirt scene — no cuffs in sight. Shirts were sometimes out of sync in the collar department — too bitty or too big. But enough nitpicking.

It was a grand event, truly Hollywood-worthy. Yes, I missed what used to be called a “Cher Moment” — a really dramatic, over-the-top extravagant costume and dramatic entrance. And yet, Sandy Powell in accepting her award for, coincidentally, Costume Design —The Young Victorians — brought a new, modern sensibility to the stage. Her choice of gown was simply exquisite and the fabric ultra-luxurious. And finally, “sensational” best describes Penelope Cruz in a draped Bordeaux satin gown by Donna Karan.

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Cleavage, or décolleté, has its place. Bikinis, bathing suits, strapless gowns and party dresses are all cleavage-compatible. And with the Academy Award nominees just announced, thoughts turn to the annual revealing review of starlets and celebrities as they stroll the red carpet.

That said — cleavage has absolutely no business in the boardroom. Yet, it’s a recurring theme whenever I’m asked to address the topic of appropriate business attire. Doesn’t matter whether I’m presenting to financial institutions, law firms, government agencies or large corporations — invariably, my clients will reinforce the importance of discouraging ‘distracting décolleté.’ Deeply cut necklines create a discomfort-zone for everyone in the office.

When women in the public eye violate a sense of decorum with ‘indecent exposure,’ the media moves quickly. I remember when Canada’s Foreign Affairs Minister, The Honourable Maxime Bernier attended the Cabinet Swearing-in Ceremony, with his scantily clad girlfriend. I was inundated with media calls.
When a blazer didn’t add dignity
And my observations

During this controversy, designer Andrea Clair, the creator of Wink Intimates Inc., contacted me. She had read my remarks in the Toronto Star and wanted me to see her so-called 9to5 Bra, specifically designed to cover cleavage, or in Andrea’s words, “a business bra”. Initially, I was skeptical but Andrea was well spoken and convincing. I became intrigued and agreed to meet.

Andrea brought her 9to5 Bra and I immediately realized she had truly designed a problem solver to address business attire, plus, the ideal solution for well-endowed clients. With my penchant for multi-tasking, it swiftly occurred to me that here was the ideal underpinning for Diane von Furstenberg’s ubiquitous wrapped dresses — regardless of body type. And I’m not alone. Monika Schnarre, former supermodel and actor calls her 9to5 Bra a ‘must-have’ and recording artist Jann Arden praises the comfort factor.   Take a look

Last year, Andrea confided that in search of investment capital, she had taken her 9to5 Bra to the prominent TV show, Dragons’ Den. She was sworn to secrecy until the episode aired.
Intriguingly, the male Dragons — and captains within the corporate world’s boardrooms, I might add — didn’t get it. They vocally embraced the concept of cleavage and flatly turned Andrea down. Conversely, Arlene Dickenson, CEO of Venture Communications and the only female Dragon, was ready to jump in and invest $150,000 — providing she assumed 55% ownership of the company. Andrea declined.   Watch the episode.

Maybe you’ve witnessed a fashion faux pas or misstep —in the boardroom and beyond. Please let us know your thoughts.

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