Last month, a series of conversations recorded in 1964 between Jacqueline Kennedy and Arthur Schlesinger Jr., a former Kennedy aide, was published into the latest book on the legendary first lady – and one of my favourite 20^th-century style icons – titled Jacqueline Kennedy: Historic Conversations on Life with John F. Kennedy. During these conversations, Jackie speaks her mind – sometimes controversially so – sharing her opinions on political figures, musing on life in the spotlight, reminiscing on past times with JFK. Though her words in these conversations can be raw, from them emerges a new perspective on Jackie’s life from the woman herself – and it serves to remind me what a strong and unforgettable woman she was.

Elegant and poised even in moments of extreme crisis: Jackie Kennedy acted as a role model for women of her time and continues to remain so today. What are the elements that composed such an iconic public figure and, of course, such a revered celebrity in the fashion world as well? Though her wardrobe revealed her impeccable taste, it was not simply her outfits that made her so celebrated as a paragon of style. It was also how she presented herself: her graceful mannerisms and speech, the way she wore her clothes. She used all the components of self-presentation to her advantage.

How can we take after Jackie to look our best in front of others? First of all, Jackie was a woman who knew how to carry herself. She had superb posture – most likely a result of years of horseback riding as a girl. Good posture can make you instantly appear confident – not to mention taller and thinner. Slouching, however, can make you look disinterested or sloppy, and can even give you back or jaw pain. So keep your shoulders straight and your head held high: you will seem and feel more alert.

Jackie also knew what types of clothes fit her best. For formal affairs, she often chose empire-waisted gowns (a high-waisted dress that gathers just below the bust and has a long, flowing skirt) in order to lengthen her legs. She also wore boat-neck shirts in order to accentuate her collarbone, one of her most striking features. By knowing her body type and understanding what looked best on her figure, she was able to take fine clothes and make them look extraordinary.

And, naturally, there was her wonderful sense of style. Jackie had a penchant for French fashion; her year studying at the Sorbonne at age 20 perhaps sparked this lifelong passion. She also had a remarkably colourful wardrobe – sometimes daringly so – that is largely imperceptible in the black and white photographs that documented much of her time as First Lady. Her taste and choices of clothing have been imitated since she entered the public sphere, not only by millions of women around the world, but also by established designers such as Givenchy and Tom Ford.

To me, Jackie Kennedy is a timeless figure of grace, strength, and style. Following her example, women everywhere can adopt her elegance as a model for when we need to look our best in the public eye – whether we are giving an important presentation, making a speech in front of an audience, or even simply sharing our thoughts at a minor meeting. No matter the size of the crowd, Jackie carried herself admirably and let her strength shine through.

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Most women are guided by a simple shopping rule: If the shoe fits, buy it. Even when they know the tortuous work called “breaking them in” lies ahead, they’re on shoe-purchase-auto-pilot. I know. As the saying goes – been there, done that. Recently something happened to make me toss out the old adage about simply settling for a shoe that fits.

I discovered shoes so alluring, so glamorous, stylish and comfortable, my first reaction was shock. Did I mention High-Heels with a capital H? I’m talking about Ron White All Day Heels®. I know; I probably sound like an infomercial but these amazing shoes are now more than just a personal favourite. They’ve become an important part of the wardrobe mix when I’m working with private image enhancement clients. In fact, Stage Six of the process focuses on finding the right footwear for a client’s newly finessed outfits.

Earlier in the month, on exactly this kind of mission, a client and I were in Ron White’s Manulife store when I spotted the designer-magician, himself. Ron was busy. Nice to see he’s really in touch with his customers, I thought. And then I looked again – Ron was personally assisting Canada’s First Lady, Laureen Harper. The interesting part of the incident is that Mrs. Harper had gone on record saying she now only wears Ron White All Day Heels®. I understand viagraly. These shoes are essential for anyone who must stand and stand and stand – for hours at a time – while looking smartly turned out. Incredibly, the collection covers all the bases from understated pumps to edge-y, glam stilettos.

National Post dubbed Ron a “sole man” in a recent article about his ascendency to shoe royalty. Ron didn’t actually aspire to become a shoe designer. As an established shoe-retailer, he thought the so-called comfort brands he purchased for his stores underestimated the importance of the style component. He tried repeatedly to convince world-renowned footwear companies to consider the innovations he suggested. No takers. But Ron steadfastly refused to believe that “glamorous comfort” and “all-day high-heels” were oxymorons.

Finally, in frustration he started to work independently with Italian factories and experiment using cutting-edge, high-performance materials to create ultra-feminine, flattering shoes that never reveal the comfort aspect to the observer, only the wearer. The secret is in the shoe itself – to understand the mysterious, undetectable comfort factor, you must try them on. Et voilà, like stepping on a magic carpet.

Over the last three years, Canadian women have embraced these miracle shoes, until now sold exclusively at Ron White stores. What many of these followers may not know is that earlier this year, Ron successfully launched his eponymous brand at San Francisco’s preeminent shoe store, Arthur Berens. Actually, successful is an understatement. While in the company of major world-class designer brands, within one week of arrival, All Day Heels® almost sold out!

Another little known fact about Canada’s youthful, world-class shoe designer? His All Day Heels® are the new gold standard for red carpet walks everywhere. I guess we could call Ron Shoe-Whisperer to starlets! Bravo et merci beaucoup.

See the entire Ron White All Day Heel ® collection and read more about Ron:

http://lastheplace.com/2011/03/28/be-stylish-comfortable-with-ron-white-all-day-heels/

Footnotes:

• The less the dress, the less the shoe – A pump with a suit and a sandal with a sundress.
• A shoe should be either darker than the hemline, same colour, or tone on tone.
• If you want to have your shoe as your main accessory, there’s nothing wrong with a little black dress, a purple shoe and matching handbag.
• A low heel with a very short skirt is more appropriate than a high heel.
• The mood of the outfit should be reflected in the shoe.

The Kitten heels may not appear as sexy as the stilettos but they are just as flattering and versatile.  They work well with both office attire and cocktail clothes whether it is a suit, a sheath dress or straight, pleated and  A-line skirts.  Depending on the shoe, kitten heels may be paired with cropped pants.

The stacked heels are the most comfortable of thigh-heel styles and is also the most businesslike in look, making it the perfect complement to suits and trousers.

The stilettos is best when paired with slim skirts.  If you wear stilettos with trousers, you’ll get the leggiest look by wearing the hem of your pants across the top of the shoe allowing only the toe to peek out.

Loafer or oxford have high-vamped — they slip-on or lace-up and look perfect with pants – think Katharine Hepburn.  Only the very tall and thin should pair them wit skirts.

Flats look best with narrow and cropped pants.  They also look great with long or short skirts, with a knee-length skirt, however, flats can look dowdy.  When you wear them take a look at yourself in a full length mirror.

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Although I’d read that two billion viewers were expected to watch, the actual London turnout signaled this was going to be a real celebration. And it was. Impeccably timed, perfectly rehearsed —everything went smoothly but with such a sense of joy, this was modern pageantry at its finest. You just knew that everyone from the cheering crowds to the wedding guests was enjoying the entire spectacle.

Top of my list was, of course, the wedding gown. There had been so much speculation about which British designer would receive the coveted commission that British bookies were laying odds! Remarkably, both the design and the designer remained secret till the moment Miss Catherine Middleton, soon to be Duchess of Cambridge, exited the Goring Hotel.

I believe by choosing Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, she sent a strong statement about her personal sense of style and one that’s truly apropos —given her new role. The fashion house of McQueen is often described as Britain’s edgiest couturier but with a profound respect for the highest standards of workmanship.

And this benchmark of quality with style is exactly what Sarah Burton delivered in her timeless ivory silk tulle and lace gown, with hints of days gone by. The lace appliqué for the bodice and skirt was handmade by the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court Palace and is based on an Irish technique called Carrickmacross lace, dating from the 1820’s. I guess my one regret is that the exquisite attention-to-detail this artisanal work requires just didn’t come across on camera.

Perhaps the biggest departure from traditional wedding party attire was Maid of Honor Philippa Middleton’s ivory gown. For years, guests and bridal attendants have all lived by the rule that ivory or white is reserved for the bride and only the bride. Both Philippa’s cowl-necked column and the bridesmaids’ dresses actually echoed the wedding gown’s exact colour.

We all expect to see the lace bodice and full-skirted gown duplicated at weddings this summer — and probably for years to come — but I’m wondering if we may also see a new trend towards ivory bridesmaids and a departure of the ubiquitous strapless bridal party silhouette in favour of cowl necked columns?

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And many of these resolutionists are so unschooled at working out it’s scary. Excessive weights, pathetic posture on the Stairmaster and high-speed reps are all common infractions. But with a mindset of overcoming holiday splurging, poorly executed sit-ups and crunches are positively epidemic.

I have always known that form is all when it comes to these core workouts but never realized that sit-ups are absolutely off-limits for some people, until I read Unbreakable: A woman’s triumph over osteoporosis, by Christine Thomas. I met Christine five years ago when she booked an image consultation. But she had embarked on her journey in 2001 as a 42-year old new mom who had just been diagnosed with osteoporosis. After fracturing her spine in five places, even the simple act of lifting her newborn daughter was too much for her fragile and compromised skeletal system.

I guess before I met Christine, like most people I thought of osteoporosis (if I thought of it, at all) as a disease of very old people. Not so. This year, an estimated 1.5 million Canadians over 40 years of age and older will be diagnosed with osteoporosis. Startling. And this is what makes Christine’s book so important. Far more than the story of her personal evolution as she unraveled the challenges of osteoporosis, Unbreakable is a guide for anyone concerned about brittle bones — from pain management to calcium supplements and their much needed additive, Vitamin D, to bone density tests and stretching techniques. It’s all here, exercises to avoid — the infamous sit-up — and exercises to embrace: get in the pool! This is the ultimate resource on living with osteoporosis.

Here’s an excerpt from Unbreakable that traces Christine’s reasons for contacting me —and the happy outcome:

“Fractures affect the figure! The loss of height and curvature of my spine made me more compact and thickened my waist because the distance between my underarms and waist, and my waist to my hips was less than it used to be. Clothes that used to look lovely no longer fit very well and shopping was frustrating.

Diane Craig was kind and confident as she helped me build a wardrobe. We chose current fashions that fit my personal taste and flattered my new physique. Picking the right wardrobe helped me to accept what I cannot change about my body. It helped rebuild a positive self-image despite the consequences of my fractures. Through a figure and style analysis, I became more aware and more accepting of my body’s proportions and learned secrets to enhance my overall appearance by selecting correct lines and designs. This was and continues to be one of my greatest investments in healing my emotional wounds and lifting my spirits.”

Merci Christine. Bonne année et bonne santé!

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When CEO Trudy Sullivan arrived at Talbots, from her previous position at casual apparel giant Liz Claiborne, she was startled by the absence of in-house design and product development departments. Ms Sullivan quickly addressed this through new hires to build a design team. An obvious place to start, right? But what set Ms Sullivan’s direction apart was her approach. She resisted the urge to throw out the baby with the bathwater. Instead of a total overhaul and an immediate call to arms to create new products, she organized a systematic review of best, and worst, sellers from the past sixty years! This re-examination of the foundations — the pearls, twin-sets, flats, trench coats — was not an exercise in finding old favourites to re-issue but to understand the core of Talbots’ business and the cachet of true American style.

Surely there can be no more enduring examples of American style than Katherine Hepburn, Jacqueline Onassis and Princess Grace of Monaco. Cleverly, Talbots has created three separate fits for jackets, each named after one of these iconic women. In total, there are 23 styles available on-line, each grouped according to fit, and with an accompanying video called — Meet the Ladies:

• Kate: Sexy, hourglass, fitted-at-the waist jackets for dressing up or down.
• Jackie: Cool, sophisticated and playful jackets. Great with jeans and skirts.
• Grace: Classic, slightly fitted jackets — feminine and ladylike.

Jackets are a big-ticket item, rarely an impulse purchase. This technique of “romancing the merchandise” carries with it the promise of boosted sales. Who could resist exploring these enticingly different looks? I don’t want to second-guess Ms Sullivan or the design group but the implications for this brand within a brand are intriguing and filled with possibility.

Equally as audacious was Ms Sullivan’s willingness to take on denim. From its modest, missy-fitting past, Talbots has emerged as a leader in the denim category. Again, there’s the new signature emphasis on multiple fits, plus, an assortment of silhouettes and finishes or “washes” to ensure every woman finds her dream jean.

It’s clear to me that Talbots is a work in progress. The holiday collection proposes “re-imagined offerings” and from what I’ve seen so far, only the edgiest vintage details will be reinvented or the source of inspiration. Simple, traditional pearl necklaces have evolved into dramatic, glamorous multi-strand showpieces. It wouldn’t surprise me if Michelle Obama shows up for a Christmas party in one of these beauties.

But the real measure of Ms Sullivan’s Executive Presence is surely her grace under fire. The rebranding took place during extraordinarily challenging financial pressure: plummeting stock prices, selling off the men’s and kid’s divisions; criticism for overpaying for recently purchased casual retailer J. Jill. Throughout all this public scrutiny, Ms Sullivan and her team rolled out the rebranding and never lost their poise or their vision. What a coup! Félicitations for creating the cachet that is Talbots today.

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I often speak about the importance of developing Executive Presence and Talbots certainly has it — now. I’m not suggesting, on any level, that Talbots’ metamorphosis was instant, easy or a magic bullet for immediate sales. Au contraire. It was meticulously researched, artfully orchestrated and ultimately, is a work-in-progress. What obviously intrigues me about the campaign is how it reinforces my philosophy: your image directly affects your ability to achieve success.

There are some extremely clever features in the re-brand but surely the most controversial is the choice of 1980’s supermodel, Canadian Linda Evangelista, as the 45-year old face of Talbots. Chances are you don’t remember her in the Miss Teen Niagara contest — the beginning of her illustrious career — but do remember her famous quote about her salary expectations at the height of her fame, “I don’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day.” Chameleon Linda, once known for her constantly changing appearance, has now stepped out for Talbots in a series of super-glam shots.  Some nay-sayers argue that Linda doesn’t look 45, that she is unfamiliar as a style icon to the new, targeted thirty-something customer, that her “fast” look will scare away existing customers and on and on …

To all those objections, I have the obvious response. The campaign just launched, the results aren’t in, but and it’s a big but, remember those pant sales. And besides, there are many other components than just Linda. What Ms. Evangelista did was create buzz and a ton of free publicity. Linda made me sit up and take notice, to actually visit the website and, I should add, a store. And what I found was impressive. This frumpy old store has a new Executive Presence!

To be continued (Part 1 of 2)

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It’s one thing to over pack and cram the car for a cottage weekend but come fall, both business trips and holiday getaways require a new, minimalist mindset. As a professional wardrobe problem-solver, I’m on constant alert for what seems to be the unfindable: great, packable clothes. Simple to maintain, uncreasable fabrics are usually contrary to quality, fashion and style. When I learned that Ottawa retailer Marlene Shepherd had developed a “Packably Perfect” concept, a week’s wardrobe (or even two!) all packed in a carry-on, I knew help was at hand.

So last month, during my Ottawa trip, I arranged to meet with Marlene, my friend, colleague and collaborator, for a hands-on session. My mission? Problem solving for a very diverse group of clients — many shapes, sizes and careers but having in common hectic travel schedules. Marlene knows her way around the international fashion marketplace and she has a special skill when it comes to discovering hidden gems within our own borders. True to form, she pulled out all the stops and shared her latest treasures, with travel in mind. We spent the morning fine-tuning; here’s our short list.

1. Trousers, the core component of every travel wardrobe, for work and play. Start with black, charcoal or dark brown and build from this base.

Tailored boot-cut trousers with an impeccable pedigree: a hip-gliding fit in a modern stretch fabric. Cambio, $210.00
Trim, slim-leg pants in dressed-up microfibre. Perfect for arriving crease-free. Margaret M, $98.00

2.  A knit cardigan or vest instead of a traditional jacket. The point I want to make here is that professional dressing doesn’t need to be structured. As Marlene says, “Once a woman discovers comfort, there’s no turning back.”

We focused on three very different collections: Nic + Zoe, Pure & Co., Curio. I was truly intrigued to see some of Marlene’s picks could be worn back-to-front or even upside down! No kidding. Slip into a sweater-vest  “bottoms-up” and suddenly it’s a cropped version with a generous collar. Obviously, these are specially designed pieces, so please don’t try this at home!

3. Crisp 100 percent cotton shirts and NO ironing, ever. A dream come true. White and colours. Foxcroft, $95.00

4. Simpli — sensational! This collection of seasonless jersey knitwear by Vancouver’s Simpli, has more components than a jigsaw puzzle, a zillion colours and endless combinations. Enough variations to go from boardroom to cruise ship. There’s only one fabrication so it’s easy to add components from year to year. Everything is sized but there are also two different fits, snug or relaxed. A perfect 3-piece career look, we agreed, is a pant and matching vest with a contrast underpiece. Some of the combos we came up with:
Base colour         Contrast
Navy                     Peacock
Charcoal              Aubergine
Black                    Wine

5. Clean lines, simple shapes and sensual fabrics form the Eileen Fisher philosophy. Every piece is perfectly designed to skim the body with flattering shape-enhancing style. Although Marlene, a self-avowed Size 16 loves this collection, my friend Kim, a yogini and perfect Size 8, is just as enthusiastic.

6. The icing on the cake — accessories. Marlene’s start in business was with jewellery so it’s not surprising she continues to have innovative ideas. “Wardrobe pieces,” as Marlene calls them, are semi-precious, multi-strand necklaces that detach into single or double strands, often with an optional pendant, providing real versatility — every traveler’s dream. She’s proud of the group of young Canadian jewellery designers providing Shepherd’s with these one-of-a-kind bijoux.

What a morning! Client checklist completed and with time to spare for personal shopping. My own “wheelie” is now perfectly packed and ready to go. I can’t wait.

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Although the FAT question is all too familiar, when it comes to image and creating an individual sense of style, my guiding principle is body proportion. What most people don’t realize is that while ten pounds makes the difference between one size and the next, those same ten pounds don’t alter the basic proportions of a body. Short neck or short legs? The right necklines and skirt silhouettes will play magical tricks. Same story for sloping shoulders or thick thighs. My strategy is to enhance the body’s framework with confidence-building clothing.

I know size doesn’t really matter because ten pounds here or there won’t make a difference to the body’s intrinsic shape, but sometimes it’s a challenge to make a perfectly proportioned client accept the fact that her Size 10 or 12 frame is not overweight. There is something wrong when educated, successful women have Size 0 as a goal. Last fall I mentioned Countess Filippa, the Ralph Lauren model fired for weighing in at 120 pounds. To add insult to injury, scary Photoshopping for a Japanese advertisement turned her body into a Barbie doll.

There’s no question that the fashion industry is the source of this Size 0 fixation and now, with the annual release of the mega-sized fashion magazines and their fall coverage, I’m inclined to think there’s extra pressure brought to bear. I was intrigued to read in a recent New York Times article, that German magazine Brigitte has decided, instead of rail thin models, to photograph real women, despite hostile criticism from designer Karl Lagerfeld. Incidentally, when Herr Lagerfeld designed a condensed collection for retailer H&M a few years ago, he insisted that production be restricted to small sizes.

Closer to home, Glamour magazine has made headlines for featuring so-called plus-size models on several occasions. (Most would argue that these women are healthy and normal, not overweight.) Although the intent is noble — to discourage women from aspiring to wafer thinness — the overwhelming trend for fashion shows and photography continues to be Size 0 models.

But there is progress, of a different sort. Typically fashion magazines worship youth but three of this fall’s gigantic issues feature 40-plus cover girls. Something of a milestone, although admittedly, all three are movie stars: Julia Roberts (Elle), Halle Berry (Vogue), Jennifer Aniston (Harper’s Bazaar).

Read more from Glamour, “Who says supermodels have to be thin?”

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Last week, I admit, I had an Inspector Poirot moment. Really. I couldn’t help myself because as I was having lunch outside at a local restaurant, a young woman at the table next to me was speaking so loudly it was open season on eavesdropping. I suppose I could have moved to another table but my lunch had arrived, my seat was in the shade and I was, I confess, intrigued. Quickly, I rationalized my situation as “professional field research.”

Apparently, the woman had been sent home from work to change her clothes. She was furiously bashing her boss, “Miss Perfect in her purr-fect little cardigan, linen pants and sling backs.”

How could I resist?  There I was with a ringside seat. I leaned in a little closer.

It didn’t take long to sort things out. The self-proclaimed victim showed up for Casual Friday in flip-flops and leggings, prompting her boss, the so-called Miss Perfect, to send her home to change. The tirade continued, “What’s the matter with her? Doesn’t she know Friday’s the day you let it all hang out? It’s the day that transitions you into the weekend. Doesn’t she know anything about dressing down? Doesn’t she ever relax?”

Whew! Quite an outburst and yet the friend said nothing. At the time I thought she should have backed up the boss; after all, sending someone home to change sends a pretty strong message. I guess she knew there was no point. I’ve come to realize that since the young woman in flip flops could read the signals — cardigan, linen slacks, sling backs — but didn’t get the point, she’s probably not the right person for the job.

The moral of the story? Actually, I guess there are a couple:

• Please let this be the last time I say it this summer — flip-flops are for the beach.
• Leggings are ideal for workouts, and that’s where they belong.
• Look to the top for cues about casual dress codes. Where skirt and pant suits rule, don’t even think about showing up in a sundress.
• Same goes for guys, if suits and ties are routine most days, chances are polo shirts are off-limits on Friday.
• And finally, beware of boss bashing. You never know who’s listening.

And speaking of bosses, Standford Professor and best-selling author, Bob Sutton, has a new book — Good Boss, Bad Boss: How to Be the Best… and Learn from the Worst —that’s scheduled for release September 7.

I haven’t seen it yet but advance press makes it clear Dr. Sutton has directed his book at employees, not the boss! Should be an interesting read.

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A case in point is the call I received only weeks ago from journalist, TV broadcaster and host of Listen UP TV, Lorna Dueck. She had big news about the upcoming royal tour of Canada — and big questions about the protocols of meeting Queen Elizabeth. Lorna was calling on behalf of Reverend Dr. Franklin Pyles, her Chairman of the Board. He was honoured with an invitation to say Grace at the State Dinner for the Queen, to be hosted by Prime Minister Harper on July 5 at the Fairmont Royal York in Toronto. A big night and a big occasion requiring more than a little attention to detail.

As President of the Christian and Missionary Alliance Church in Canada, Rev Dr. Pyles leads 400 churches, including Prime Minister Harper’s place of worship, and is obviously, a seasoned communicator. Both he and his wife Gay felt truly blessed by this great honour — but dinner with the Queen is far from an everyday experience and requires some coaching, along with glamorous, special-occasion clothing.

We made quick progress with the royal protocols, next step, a real evening gown for Gay. Together, Gay and I visited award winning Canadian designer Ross Mayer. For over 20 years, Ross has dressed a fiercely loyal clientele. From chic daywear to sleek eveningwear, his reputation for hitting just the right note for every occasion is justly deserved. It’s no surprise that Ross scored an A+ with Gay’s elegant gown in deep purple and silver brocade —truly fit for the Queen.

Next step? Sparkling crystal jewels to dramatize the effect. At the Swarovski flagship store on Bloor Street, we met with Maria and Store Manager Ryan for a tour of what must be the world’s biggest jewel case! So many choices and only one occasion — we finally decided on a necklace, earrings and bracelet. The final finishing touch was a perfect “bijoux” evening bag.  Little wonder Gay said she felt like Cinderella!

And Rev Dr. Pyles, perfectly turned out in his tux, had a brocade vest to match Gay’s gown. But the crowning touch, if you’ll pardon the pun, was the Monarch’s Protocol Officer complimenting Rev Dr. Pyles’ for both his saying of Grace and its appropriateness.

It was a magical evening. Congratulations Rev Dr. and Mrs. Pyles. Thank you for including us in this very special event.